{"id":5054,"date":"2024-08-07T14:23:23","date_gmt":"2024-08-07T14:23:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/acetaiasereni.com\/?p=4970"},"modified":"2026-01-27T14:40:10","modified_gmt":"2026-01-27T14:40:10","slug":"the-variables-for-the-quality-of-a-balsamic-vinegar-of-modena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/acetaiasereni.com\/en\/conversation-en\/the-variables-for-the-quality-of-a-balsamic-vinegar-of-modena\/","title":{"rendered":"The variables for the quality of a Balsamic Vinegar of Modena"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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The variables for the quality of a Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (aging time excluded)<\/div>
by Francesco Sereni<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Just go into any shop that sells Balsamic Vinegar and, asking for information about the products on sale, they will start listing the available agings: over 12 years, over 25 years, over 50 years, even: 100 years. On the labels hanging on the bottles or immediately next to them you will find, together with the price, a clear indication of the years of aging: and the “bingo” of the age of the vinegars begins again, which are often not even “Traditional”.<\/p>

The same customers go into the shops and ask for a 20-year-old vinegar, after hearing about it from a blogger on Tik Tok, or after seeing a famous chef from Masterchef pouring it drop by drop on the risotto creamed with Parmigiano Reggiano; the most \u201cconnoisseurs\u201d instead snub products aged over 12 years, because once they tasted a \u201c50-year-old bottle that went down like cream\u201d at their cousin\u2019s and from that moment on any other vinegar is inferior.<\/p>

This happens from Modena to Bologna, from New York to San Francisco, from Berlin to Paris; it is therefore a consolidated and rooted idea in the minds of consumers and traders that Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is \u201cbetter\u201d when it is \u201colder\u201d. In my opinion this direct relationship is not always true and it is necessary to evaluate many other aspects that are often put in the background.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Wooden Barrels<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Any Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Traditional and industrial, low or high quality, needs to be aged in wooden barrels.<\/p>

There are dozens of producers of aging barrels and each of them has free choice of using wood of various qualities and essences, as well as different techniques of seasoning and bending of the staves, thickness of the staves, material of the rims.<\/p>

We had the opportunity to visit one of these, F. Renzi, who I believe is unanimously the highest quality producer in the Balsamic Vinegar sector: the long seasoning of the wood, the great thickness of the staves and the stainless steel rings make his barrels works of art with an (almost) infinite duration.<\/p>

A choice that is instead up to the producer of Balsamic Vinegar is that of the capacity of the barrels that make up the battery (aging barrels set): the optimal capacity of the smallest barrel, as suggested by the Consorteria di Spilamberto, is 10 liters, but no one forbids the use of smaller barrels, both for home production and for sale; it is also possible to use barrels with a larger capacity, therefore paradoxically producing Balsamic with a battery that starts from 50 liters and reaches over 300 liters; the variables of barrel capacity have a strong impact on the quality and flavor of the final Balsamic Vinegar for the same aging times, both due to the lesser\/greater contact between the product and the wood, and due to a difference in concentration times.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The length of the battery (aging barrels set) can also strongly influence the quality and average aging of the final product: obviously for the same aging times, (intended as the quantity of replenishments, therefore years) a longer battery will produce a Balsamic Vinegar that is on average \u201colder\u201d than a short battery, because the fresh must upstream takes longer to reach the barrel further downstream.<\/p>

Therefore, talking about aging times without considering the manufacturer of the barrels, their quality, their capacity, their essences and the length of the battery, is a simplification that can be misleading.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Grapes, Musts and Cooking<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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When entering any wine shop to buy a bottle of wine, after having established whether the search for the bottle we want to buy will focus on red, white, still or sparkling wines, we will almost immediately move on to choosing the production area and the vine. We therefore look for a Merlot or a Nebbiolo, a Pinot Noir or a Chardonnay: eventually we will compare the same vine interpreted in two different areas: this is the case for example of the Tuscan Sangiovese, which is interpreted in Chianti differently from Montalcino.<\/p>

In Balsamic Vinegar, on the other hand, we rarely talk about vines, despite it being the basis of the work of any producer and the first variable in the production of Balsamic. In fact, everything starts from the choice of which vine to plant\/harvest\/buy.<\/p>

Each vine can give flavors, acidity, shades and aromas totally different from each other: this is the case for example of Trebbiano di Spagna, semi-aromatic, white, very fragrant, and Lambrusco Grasparossa, with red stalks, fruity with little acidity. Each of them will have its own predisposition to aging, an important factor for a product that must refine for at least 12 years before being put on the market. It would be interesting and characterizing in fact to compare various Balsamics based on the vines from which they come, regardless of their aging.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Hearing a seller propose his selection of Balsamic Vinegar talking and comparing the grape varieties they are made of, would be a breath of fresh air; or tasting a risotto seasoned with a 100% Trebbiano di Spagna Balsamic. It is true that cooking the musts homogenizes the grape juices a lot: it is much easier to perceive the differences in grape variety in a raw must than in a cooked must, due to the various transformations that occur during high-temperature cooking.<\/p>

Even in this case, however, the producer of the cooked must can choose whether to cook more or less, at higher or lower average temperatures, starting from a raw juice that is more or less sugary and acidic. Consequently, cooking also greatly influences the final product and the expert hand absolutely makes the difference, again, beyond the aging times. Indeed: a badly or over-cooked must, with the passing of time and therefore with the relative concentration, could amplify its negative notes.<\/p>

Sometimes you taste very bitter, defective balsamic vinegars with burnt notes. In this case, despite the product having aged for a long time, the quality is very low and certainly inferior to a Balsamic vinegar that has not aged much, but comes from a perfectly cooked must.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Production, Areas and Ageing<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Returning to the world of wine, as already mentioned, the same grape variety in different areas produces different wines, even just by moving a few meters: this is the case for Barolo, for example, always made with Nebbiolo grapes, but distinguished in the various declinations of “cru” or “comune”.<\/p>

The same situation could occur for Balsamic Vinegar: based on the location of the vineyard or the vinegar factory where the Balsamic vinegar ages, we could perceive differences that would identify a micro-zone of Modena.<\/p>

For example, a vineyard of Lambrusco di Sorbara grown in Carpi on sandy soils will produce musts that are totally different from a vineyard of Lambrusco Grasparossa grown in Castelvetro on clayey\/calcareous soils. And yet we are still talking about Lambrusco! As for the area where the battery is located, therefore where the Balsamic Vinegar ages, the altitude and temperatures will certainly influence the final result.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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I am convinced that a Balsamic Vinegar preserved on the top of Monte Cimone at 2165 meters above sea level, ages in a totally different way from a Balsamic Vinegar aged in Finale Emilia (15 meters above sea level), if only because of the differences in temperature in summer and therefore evaporation. In the specific case of the same area, the situation inside the Acetaia can also influence the aging: a Balsamic Vinegar aged in an airy and ventilated attic can age differently from another aged in an attic without windows with high humidity.<\/p>

This new way of identifying the various micro-zones could lead to an increase in consumer interest in this magnificent world, for the desire and curiosity to discover Balsamic Vinegar from various areas and possibly buy more bottles from various areas, without limiting themselves to simply buying a ‘Balsamic Vinegar aged 50 years’.<\/p>

The generalization and flattening in the promotion and sale of Balsamic Vinegar, both in trade and among simple enthusiasts, I think leads to a dead end where we will always find ourselves discussing the age of the product and competing to see who has the oldest, losing sight of all the fundamental variables that strongly impact and characterize the Balsamic of each family.<\/p>

Greater differentiation and identification of the variables would lead to a wide range of Balsamic Vinegars, each one different even in the eyes of inexperienced consumers and not only enthusiasts, thus also bringing greater interest in Italian and foreign tourists, who at that point would be encouraged to discover more vinegar factories, more areas, more producers during the same holiday. The process is very long, but if it is carried out with obstinacy and clarity, house by house, vinegar factory by vinegar factory, I am convinced that our children will benefit from it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We are not in a hurry, time does not scare us.<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Francesco Sereni opens up new perspectives for establishing the quality of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Not only aging, but many other very important factors, which could give a new boost to curiosity towards this centuries-old product!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":213,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[73],"tags":[97,35,1146,466,183,40,261,1147,1148,643,1149,317,395,817,597,166,1151,1152,167,41,1153,1154,881,149,1155,1156,329,169,1052],"class_list":["post-5054","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-conversation-en","tag-acetaia-sereni","tag-aceto-balsamico","tag-areas","tag-attic","tag-bacteria","tag-balsamic-vinegar","tag-barrels","tag-capacity","tag-cooked-grape-juice","tag-evaporation","tag-factories","tag-famiglia","tag-family","tag-francesco","tag-grape","tag-grape-must","tag-interest","tag-kinds-of-grape","tag-lambrusco","tag-modena","tag-production","tag-quality","tag-room","tag-sereni","tag-soil","tag-temperature","tag-tradition","tag-trebbiano","tag-wood"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nQuality of traditional balsamic vinegar of modena: the variables<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"How is the quality of a Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena established? 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